Common Types of Botanical Anti-Aging Ingredient

 

In 2007 to 2009, a number of studies were published on a variety of herbal ingredients used as topical anti-aging and UV-protecting agents. Let's take a moment to discuss some botanicals that have either started to—or are destined to—show up in natural skin preparations.

 

Horse Chestnut Extract

Japanese researchers reported in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2007) that applying a 3 percent horse chestnut extract topically for nine weeks significantly decreased wrinkle scores (versus the control) in otherwise healthy women. Horse chestnut has a long history of use as a botanical that improves blood flow, and research has shown it possesses strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. The experimental studies leading up to the clinical trial suggested that horse chestnut extract can improve elasticity of the skin.

 

Gotu Kola (Centella Asiatic A)

Gotu kola (Centella asiatica) is another botanical that can improve blood flow—and one rich in antioxidant and anti-inflammatory chemicals. In Asian nations the herb has a long history of use in skin care, particularly for wound healing. Recently researchers have discovered that one of the chemicals in gotu kola, called asiaticoside, can stimulate collagen production. In another study published again in the International Journal of Cosmetic' Science (2008), researchers showed that a cream containing just 0.1 percent asiaticoside significantly improved eye wrinkles, skin pigmentation, elasticity, roughness, and hydration. Evaluation with instrumentation confirmed that the asiaticoside cream decreased the depths of wrinkles after three months.

 

Burdock Root (Arctium Lappa)

Burdock root (Arctium lappa) is part of the traditional Japanese diet, and you can see it for sale in most Japanese grocery stores, where it is usually called gobo. It, too, has a long history of use for skin conditions, particularly inflammatory ones such as psoriasis, acne, and eczema. Researchers from Germany identified the component of burdock with the highest anti-inflammatory activity, a chemical called arctiin, and subsequently determined that it stimulated collagen production. In a study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2008), a topical burdock extract with 0.25 percent arctiin was shown to increase collagen production and GAGs, improve hydration, and significantly reduce facial wrinkling, compared to the control group. The impressive results were noted between one to three months of regular use.

 

Bilberry

Bilberry, also known as the European blueberry, has a long history of use in skin care. Among the blueberry species, bilberry is incredibly rich in colorful antioxidants called anthocyanins that can protect the integrity of collagen. Experimental studies have shown that the purple anthocyanins found in bilberry can protect against UV damage by inhibiting the MMPs involved in collagen destruction. Antioxidants derived from berries within the blueberry family have been shown to inhibit glycation in the skin. In addition, oil derived from bilberry has been shown to improve skin hydration and the overall texture of the skin.

 

Even more...

Honorable mentions go out to pomegranate, rosemary, licorice, ginseng, feverfew, and milk thistle extracts, which have recently been shown to have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activity in skin cells. In addition, experimental studies show that saffron, Indian gooseberry, and green coffee-bean oil can stimulate collagen and GAG production in experimental settings. All of these botanicals are currently the subject of intense research, and a variety of patents are being issued for the extracts in aspects of skin care.

 

Some of the research has shown a specific ability to reduce UV-induced oxidative stress. Milk thistle, which is traditionally used as a liver-detoxifying botanical, has been shown in human research to improve rosacea when topically applied. Some of these ingredients, or chemicals derived from these herbs, are now showing up in anti-aging skin-care creams.